Get to know Jo and Bob, long-time small-scale walking holiday providers based in southern France. Travel along as we take a look at the Razès region they are based in, and discover what motivates and drives these nature lovers to share about their part of the world.
Connection to the Razès in southern France
Jo and Bob are nature guides in this beautiful region in France. They are walkers and nature lovers, explorers and writers, coaches and mindfulness instructors and now also deliver Fast-Track in-person residential programs for people wanting to qualify as professional coaches and guides in several Natural Wellness fields.
Jo says: “In 2006, we left the UK to find inner peace and freedom in this largely unspoilt part of southern France known as the Razès. Tucked away in a small village surrounded by rolling hills dressed with vines, sunflowers, woods and wild orchids, we live and breathe in harmony with the calming beauty of the natural world that surrounds us.
We believe that by immersing ourselves in nature, everyone can find inner peace, harmony and joy. This is what we have found for ourselves in the Razès and this is why we enjoy sharing this with everyone who comes looking for an unforgettable journey of self-discovery or simple, joyous re-connection with nature.”
The natural beauty of the Razès
The Razès is a rural area in the Aude département of Occitanie (formerly Languedoc Roussillon). It’s about 90 km inland of the Mediterranean coast, 90 km north of the Pyrenees and just 25 minutes south of Carcassonne.
The Razès is a captivating area characterised by a beautiful, rolling landscape decorated with hills and dales, valleys and peaks, rivers and streams. There are vineyards, woods and old villages dotted throughout. You’ll find copses of oak and pine dotted everywhere, contributing to an ever-changing display of deciduous versus evergreen.
Local walks afford magnificent views of the Malepère Massif and the Corbières region to the east, the spectacular Pyrenees to the south and the Montagne Noire and the Minervois to the north. The stunning variety of landscapes supports an equally rich array of flora and fauna, making the Razès a haven for nature enthusiasts and biodiversity advocates alike.
The varied topography of the Razès, combined with its Mediterranean climate, creates ideal conditions for orchid growth. The limestone-rich soils, in particular, are a boon for these delicate plants, providing the perfect balance of drainage and nutrients.
The mild, wet winters and warm, dry summers ensure a thriving orchid population. Whether you’re a seasoned botanist or a curious traveller, the wild orchids in the Razès promise a rewarding and unforgettable experience.
However, it is the diverse flora of the Razès that supports a wide array of butterflies, bees, and beetles. The region is known for its unique species of dragonflies and damselflies, particularly around its numerous rivers and lakes.
The abundant flora and fauna similarly make the Razès a fantastic destination for bird watchers, especially those interested in birds of prey. A variety of eagles and buzzards are often seen gliding in the thermals overhead and, from the neighbouring crests, it’s not uncommon to see Pyrenean vultures majestically drifting by.
You could literally spend days following local trails rich in orchids and wild flowers, or visiting sites highly populated by birds of prey or meadow birds from your doorstep.
Jo shares: “When I first moved to the Razès in 2006, I was so inspired by and in awe of the beauty of the countryside that I determined to make sure that I walk every trail I could find and, when I ran out, I made up my own! I feel that I know the lands as well as any farmer who has lived here all his life. What’s more, we were so mesmerised by the song of the meadow birds, the dance of the butterflies and the keening of the raptors they inspired us to write several books which have since been published, namely: ‘One Woman Walking’, ‘Tread Gently’ and ‘The Life and Tales of Little Bear’.”
The land of the Cathars
Today much of Occitanie is still called the Pays Cathare – the land of the Cathars – a people persecuted by the Catholic church in the 11th and 12th centuries. There are many walks to and around the Cathar castles which offer historical interest and spectacular views. Among the most famous are Carcassonne (the largest castle in Europe with 3 kilometres of ramparts to walk around) and Montségur (the castle and burial ground of hundreds of Cathars who refused to submit to the Catholic church). Other popular sites are Peyrepertuse, Rennes-le-Château and Quéribus but you could easily spend two weeks visiting a different one each day!
Some of the Cathar castles and villages in the Razès were popularised in recent years by the best-selling novels of Dan Brown and Kate Mosse. Walking the Cathar trails in and around these castles is already awe-inspiring and culturally-enriching, richly steeped as they are in the plight of the Cathares. However, following the trails as outlined thematically in the books by Kate Mosse also adds its own energy of fun and intrigue.
On the non-Cathar side of things -but no less grand and imposing – is the neighbouring medieval town of Mirepoix which boasts one of the best weekly markets as well as a great selection of good restaurants tucked away under the stilts of the inner town centre. This town is easily walked to via the GR7 and the GR78 and makes a great stop for lunch or a beer amidst so much charm and character.
Cultural events and local festivals in the area
The fireworks display on Bastille night (July 14th) at Carcassonne is quite simply breath-taking because of the dramatic size of the castle, set against the backdrop of the Aude River, simply boasts of its imposing cultural and historical heritage.
From April through to the end of October, many of the villages and towns in the Razès hold various events at the weekends (and weekdays in July & August) including: vide greniers, night markets and fêtes, wine-tasting, cheese-tasting, and group hiking events to name just a few.
The local wine producers generally have their doors open to the public throughout the entire period. The neighbouring medieval town of Mirepoix hosts numerous festivals throughout the year including the festivals of music and marionettes in summer and to celebrate the apple harvest in autumn.
Carcassonne hosts a 2-week international music festival with world celebrated artists from the end of June into July each year. Some of the Cathar castles hold spectacular music and light shows at night during the summer months and even medieval jousting displays by day.
The caves of Mary Magdalene
The purported meditation caves of Mary Magdalene are tucked away in the cliffs facing Rennes-le-Château (where there is also a Church dedicated in her honour and daily meditations free to all who visit).
Jo says: “I discovered these quite by chance since directions are not readily available and people only visit with a qualified guide. There are three caves in total, each claiming to hold uniquely different energies: the divine masculine, the divine feminine and the ‘birthing’ cave. The people I guide to these caves generally feel a strong drive to reconnect with their divine masculine or feminine side and/or ‘rebirth’ themselves: that’s-to-say, release old, undesired habits and patterns from the past so that they can start anew without the weight of the past holding them back. It is not uncommon for me to visit with people while others are also present doing the same, and they often find themselves coming together in song or chant in order to help each release the past together. It can only be described as almost angelic to hear their voices permeating the caves in such harmony.”
What makes walking in the Razès special?
Jo and Bob organise various walking holidays in the Razès area, for example their week of walking for wellbeing and walking for women only. But what makes walking in the Razès special?
The variety of terrain offering hills and valleys, meadows and lakes, garrigue and cobbled paths, villages and hamlets, river and canal activities, belvederes and hidden curios. It’s incredibly diverse and all within such a very short walking distance!
You can choose to amble through country lanes past villages or climb up a castle, or simply find peace and solitude meandering through fields of orchids or settled under a tree watching birds. The sheer numbers of butterflies and dragonflies are testament to the cleanliness of the air and waters here. That’s also why many Europeans are happy to swim the local lakes and rivers. There really is something to suit everyone’s walking holiday tastes!
What’s the local cuisine like?
There are some wonderful restaurants in proximity offering, among other dishes, the area’s hearty and wholesome specialities of cassoulet and duck. At lunchtime, it is a custom for many of the local restaurants to offer discounted prices for a two- or three-course meal. Blanquette, the oldest champagne in France, is the region’s famous wine which can accompany any meal or simply be enjoyed as an aperitif. The Malepèreregion (of which the Razès is a part) offers over 350 wines, largely unknown outside of France; except the Chemin de Moscou, sold by the Ritz in London at £120 a bottle, and produced 10 kms just from our front door.
Best time of year to visit the Razès
The best time of the year to visit the Razès depends largely on your nature interests as well desire for: peace and quiet on the walking trails or opportunities to enjoy the jovial village soirées in the height of summer.
There are many village fêtes taking place in the locale throughout July and August where local food, wine and music can be freely sampled. However, winter, spring and later autumn are generally quieter and so the walking trails are pretty empty but with plenty of wildlife to see.
The Razès is particularly renowned for its orchids and the best time to catch these is from April through to end June. The area is also known for its raptors, and these can be seen all year round although spring and early summer are often best when there is plenty of food available for raising their offspring.In autumn, winter and early spring, deer, wild boar, hares and foxes zigzag across the meadows foraging for food and water.
Razès winters are usually dry and can be warm with temperatures up to 25 degrees if it’s sunny. The downside is a cloudy or windy day can fall to 5 or 10 degrees during a cold patch. Winters are good times to follow ½ day walking circuits since the temperatures can drop fast late afternoon. Winter is a great time to take a few days out to tour the Cathare castles or simply regenerate in this beautiful part of France.
Making the most of a visit to Razès
In this neck of the woods, restaurants tend to only serve lunch between 12pm and 2pm which is not always ideal for walkers unless you plan to get up very early in some cases or wait for dinner in others. Similarly, there are sometimes few opportunities to purchase food or drink around the lesser known Cathar castles. This makes it advisable to always take plenty of water and picnics can often become the order of the day. Jo and Bob can provide water bottles and picnic boxes too so there’s no need to worry about bringing your own if you don’t want to!
The terrain is not too vigorous and so walking shoes or trainers are often more comfortable to wear than big heavy boots. It may sound cliched but, in terms of clothing, packing layers is often the best call in all our seasons. Jo and Bob have maps and walking routes that cover a variety of different walks (difficulty and terrain) covering the whole region for those who want to self-guide, otherwise Jo is happy to guide you on whichever circuit best suits your physical needs or nature interests.
Jo and Bob keep a limited supply of walking poles, water bottles, even waterproof coats so that you don’t have to pack your own if you are short of space in your suitcase.
Are you inspired and would you like to know more?
I hope you enjoyed this in-depth look into the Razès region in southern France. If you’d like to know more, you’ll find a wealth of additional information on Jo and Bob’s website: re-connecting with nature.
Also, if you’re a fan of hiking and walking, Jo and Bob would love to help you organise the perfect walking holiday in southern France. Here are the links to their walking holidays: